/ Current Jobs, homecategories / 23rd January 2019

Tips for insulating your home or office

Insulation for a home or office is vital, and at the Handy Squad, we realise the importance of this. Here are some of the most important things to know and remember when insulating your home or office.

Some methods are cheaper, more effective and quicker to implement, saving you time and money. On the other hand, some methods are more expensive but are ultimately more worthwhile investing in for the long term.


Secondary, double and triple glazing

 These may all be phrases that you are familiar with, but do you really know what these forms of glazing all are?

With secondary glazing, a frame containing a pane of glass or plastic is fixed over the existing window frame, leaving an air gap between. You can buy secondary glazing kits that are very simple to use, and they are usually available in a range of sizes.

However, sealed double and triple glazing is slightly different. It comprises two or three panes separated by spacing strips, that are bonded together and hermetically (completely airtight) sealed at a factory before being fitted onto the window frame.


Insulating your walls

Insulating your walls is a bigger and more expensive job than something like a roof. However, an average uninsulated house loses around 35% of its heat through the walls, more than roofs, doors, windows and the floor.

Firstly, cavity walls can be insulated. The insulating material is blown through holes drilled in the outside wall, however, this type of job is much better suited to a professional, such as The Handy Squad.

Solid walls can be insulated through dry-lining, which is adding an extra layer of plasterboard to their inner faces. Plasterboard with thermal and acoustic properties is ideal for a job like this. However, the slight issue with this is that plasterboard is up to 50mm thick, essentially closing in the space of the room when added.

There are two very simple steps to fitting plasterboard:

  1. Cut it to the correct size.
  2. Glue or screw it to the existing wall.

However, whilst glue or screwing the plasterboard to the existing wall is easy, there are also a couple of minor complications. For example, you may have to move and reinstall electrical wiring, sockets and switches, radiators, doors and windows.


Insulating your floors 

Floors are another key part of loss of insulation in your home or office, with the average uninsulated house losing 15% of its heat through the floor. Floors in new houses have to be insulated. However, in existing uninsulated floors, a good-quality carpet, partnered with underlay should usually be enough to minimise downward heat loss.

Any gaps below skirtings can be filled with either flexible sealant, or they can be covered by wooden beading that is pinned to the skirting.

If you have a concrete floor, you can build an insulated suspended floor on top of it.


Fitting draught excluders to your windows

Why fit draught excluders to your windows? The answer is simple: it will keep warm air in and keep cold air out. It will also help to make your home warmer and cut your fuel bills too. Also, windows on average lose around 25% of a houses heat, and that is not something that you want in your home or office.

Another positive about draught excluders are that they are cheap, easy to fix in place and are ideal for using on casement windows and interior doors. However, when fitting make sure not to stretch the strips, as this will weaken the effectiveness.

There are a few main steps that are related to fitting draught excluders to your windows:

Step 1: Use a damp cloth to clean off any dirt or loose paint that has been collected on the window frame.

Step 2: When the frame is dry, peel off the backing paper from the self-adhesive foam draught excluder – a little at a time.

Step 3: Then press it onto the outside of the window frame (where the opening casement window will press against when closed).

Step 4: Cut the ends of each length at a 45 degrees angle to form an accurate join at each corner.

Step 5: Close the window to make sure that the strip is pressed firmly in place.


How to draught-proof internal doors

Similarly to windows, draughty doors on average contribute to around 25% to the heat loss in your home or office, so knowing how to stop this is imperative.

You can draught-proof internal doors to unheated rooms by fitting a brush strip to the bottom of the door, and a self-adhesive foam seal strip all the way round the door frame.

Draught excluders come in various sizes for different sized gaps. However, if you’re unsure about the size of the gap, there is an easy way to check this. Simply squash a small piece of reusable tack into the door frame and shut the door. Reopen the door, and then remove the tack and measure it.

There are a few important steps that can be used in relation to draught-proof internal doors:

Step 1: Use a damp cloth to clean off any dirt or loose paint on the door frame.

Step 2: When the frame is dry, put self-adhesive foam draught excluder all the way around the edge – similarly to how you would for a window – and cut it to the right length with scissors.

Step 3: Make sure to attach the strip to the frame instead of the door stop, or it will rub off when the door closes.

These are just a few major ways in which you can insulate your home or office, and if you are even unsure of how to conduct one of the methods that have been explained, our London handymen can always be contacted on 0800-0 12 12 12 to make sure that your home is insulated to perfection. Alternatively, request a free quote by filling our online booking form.